Twist

Dry days- 62
Days of rain- 43

I headed back to Cadshaw with the Pasty Lord tonight. I met him at the Red Wall where he was having a go at Brian Jacques. I had a few goes at the Arete Project, feeling more static on it. I think this will go, but it's hard to know which bit of the break (read "non hold") to slap for.

After this I tried my sitter into RoB, and was surprised to get the RH crimp properly, and turn it into a 4 finger crimped grip. I had a fair crack at then holding the left hand of the stand up starting holds, so I know I can do this, although it feels hard.

Then we opted to have a look at Twist, one of Olly Mueller's problems from ages ago. The Ginnster did it in a couple of tries using the back step method. I flashed it using the Lanky method. No surprises there.

We headed to have a look at the other wall mentioned in the old SLB guide as a project, across the river and up a slippery slope of death. There's an interesting flake line, reminiscent of a mirrored Hacker. It had a wasp nest in it that I got rid of, only for the solitary occupant to hang around buzzing angrily. We had a play on this, feels quite hard but it's quite dirty, then headed home via a much easier method that didn't involve death.

Progress made, and I'm pretty keen to get back and finish my project. Or should I say projects.

Twist from GCW on Vimeo.

Lime weather

Dry days- 61
Days of rain- 43

It has been hot today. Very hot. I hope it ain't this hot for the BeardyBeast in Bleau.

I headed to Fairy Steps today, hoping the sun would be diluted through the trees. First off I headed over to Democracy, a problem I've never tried. I warmed up by working it bit by bit and managed every move in control, nicely static. So then I had a crack at the link. I was surprised to do it first go, although the calm and control had gone and it was all a bit slappy. After this I did Cultural Elite Sign Up Sheet, then headed back for a crack at Aeon Dyno.

Three guys were at the Aeon Buttress on the way back so I left it and headed up to Walk Away. I did Intellect stand, then had a look at The Second Coming and the 7a+ wall to the right. As usual I failed on both. By this time it was super hot, my skin was sore and I had run out of drink so I headed home. Rematch in due course.

A couple of easy things at Fairy Steps from GCW on Vimeo.

Catch up

Dry days- 65
Days of rain- 43

The Doc and I went up to Glen Shiel on Friday for two nights in the Cluanie Inn. On Saturday we had a wander up some Munros, planning to do Carn Ghluasaid, Sgurr nan Conbhairean and Sail Chaorain. The MWIS forecast looked good, but in the event the cloud was down at 750m and it was cold and windy. After the first two Munros we decided to forget about Sail Chaorain and headed back to the pub. A bit awkward as I am now left with an awkward to access hill for the future. Fun day out anyway.

Monday I had an hour in the evening, so headed back to Cadshaw. The local population of Mosquitos met me at the Red Wall, and it felt a little greasy. The sitter to Rivers of Blood defeated me completely, the left hand crack hold making my finger go numb. I had a look at the Ginnster's project arete thing adn made some progress. I discovered that the high "edge" wasn't at all a hold, so the top is going to be hard. Really, it needs a ladder taking in for inspection/ cleaning. I think I will be heading back on Thursday with the Ginnster.

On a seperate note, the BeardyBeast has apparently left his laptop and camcorder at home. That may restrict his Font video making.

A day behind

Dry days- 60
Days of rain- 43

Yesterday I dropped in at Woodwell for an hour. It was dry and in OK condition. The BOBN hold has finally gone leaving a sloping hold in its place. I also note a bit has come off of the Closer/ Sanctified undercut, but it makes little difference.

I fell off the move to the lip on Screaming Slave for a while, then did Closer and What's This For the cheaty way. After this I went for a walk around the coast, then found the tea shop(s) aren't open on a Tuesday. Brill.

Rain, drizzle, mist, wind, and precipitation

Dry days- 58
Days of rain- 43

Today I had the whole day free, the last few days hve been hot and sunny. I was going to have a look at Guisecliff which is somewhere I've never been. The forecast didn't look great though, but why waste a day?

The day started out nice, but once at Guisecliff it became darker and more threatening. I landed up at the Mop Top block, and did the left side of the arete (well actually I didn't as I didn't top it out as the top was filthy).

I then wandered to have a look at A Little Sparkle, and as I arrived the rain started. It was drizzle at first, but enough to make all the smear slimy so I gave it up pretty quickly. I looked at Jesus Jelly Mould which needs a good scrub, then the heavens opened. I wandered back to the car getting soaked. Actually, I stomped up and down the hillside looking at all the other stuff, getting soaked.

So then I sat in the car eating my lunch and watching the horizontal rain thinking of what to do. I opted to risk a visit to Snowden as I knew the Tantric wall overhangs and the wind was in the right direction. I was right on this occasion, and the wall was dry- the top was soaked and there was some run off but it was dripping away from the rock.

I did Naked Yoga via a better sequence- this along with the rock stabilising means it's likely 6c. I then did The Bridge second try, but without the top out onto soaking slopers. Tantric Traverse still resisted. I find this really hard on the first move. I did it from the second move to the end, but that first span feels nails. I wonder if it's my unstable shoulder that does it?

So there you go, a wet day. Typical. And now I'm back home typing this and it's sunny again. Typical.

Wet Day In Yarkshar from GCW on Vimeo.

Spanked.... again

Dry days- 55
Days of rain- 42

Tonight I went to West View, feeling rather tired. Basically I did all the stuff up to V5 and got a couple of the 6s worked out but didn't have enough in the tank. BeardyBeast and the Ginnster were looking strong as ever.

Fingers crossed for decent weather- I have a day or two free next week. Maybe an Almscliff rematch is in order..........

Spanked

Dry days- 54
Days of rain- 42

I had a spare hour today so I risked a CyL trip despite the wet weather this morning. There was a lot of dripping/ seepage from the top and the top break. I stayed at the left end doing various easy traversing and up problems. After half an hour The Jeewooth arrived and not long after Serpico turned up, bemoaning his excessive bulk.

Anyway, I had an hour re-acquanting myself with CyL then had to rush off again. It just served to reinforce the areas of weakness- but that's a good thing isn't it??