Blood on your Hands

Dry days- 9
Days of rain- 18

Been rather quiet of late, mainly as I haven't been out at all. A good start to 2011, especially with the aims that have been set. This morning I managed to get out for a couple of hours. I wasn't sure whether to try one of my esoteric projects, but after a text exchange with the Ginnster (who thought the place would be wet) I headed back to Wilton 1.

It was -2 when I arrived, with some attempts at snow. Warming up at the Graveyard area took a while. Eventually I got on The Move, and it felt better today. Several time I nearly held the sloper, only for my left foot to pop. I was confident of victory, but then caught my hand as I slapped for the hold, and blood was spilled. The Move won again.

I wandered down to the Snakey B area. I did the LH version first go, it's far easier than it used to be- probably 6b+/c area. After this I mad a look at Thulsa Doom, the high traverse. The last bit has always stumped me but today I managed it using the undercut sequence of Snakey B original and some slapping. I tried to link the whole thing, failing repeatedly on the transition to get established on the overlap.

And then I had to leave, so there remains unfinished business. I will have to head back, although I think getting out will be a bit difficult for a while. Only time will tell.

Return to the WoB

Dry days- 3
Days of rain- 13

It has rained incessantly recently, and it's starting to annoy me somewhat. I had planned to try to get outside today, but it rained all day until late afternoon. Despite Mrs Beast being ill, the BeardyBeast was keen for a WoB session so I headed over.

I have to say, the warm ups felt hard and I felt weak. Looking back I've been to the WoB for months, and it showed. My footwork was worse than normal, and that is really saying something. My skin got pretty sore after a while, and what small amounts of power I had to start with disappeared pretty quickly.

It was a reasonable session in the end, but certainly demonstrated training needs. 2011 will need to be a year of effort, there are aims to acheive.

West View and Arse Exposure

Dry days- 3
Days of rain- 10

BeardyBeast was free this evening, and after deciding that neither of us were in a fit state for the WoB we opted for Wet Poo Leisure Centre. After picking Blob 1 up from Rainbows I headed over, arriving at 8. It's up to 6 quid a pop now, and it was heaving and far too hot.

I warmed up on the easier stuff, then flashed a few V4s and V5s. I should have flashed one of the 6s but totally missed a foothold out, dunce. I felt pretty tired quite quickly, so gave up on the harder stuff. I tried a V5 in the cave, which involved a stretch for a foothold and RIP!! I managed to flash it, but when I came down I realised my trousers had torn down the seam and my arse was hanging out. Just perfect.

After this I watched BeardyBeast on the crush, then we headed home. I feel pretty weak, stamina is somewhat lacking. Oh well, 12 months to get stronger and tick some elusive aims.

2011

Dry days- 3
Days of rain- 6

It seems ages since I've done anything, hence the quietness on tyhe Blog Front. The dump of snow didn't really help matters, and the subsequent thaw and rain. But today I went out!!

I met up with the Ginnster at Wilton. I got there a bit early so had a look around the quarries. Essentially Wiltons 2, 3 and 4 were soaking. I was amazed by the amount of work that has been done too, the little overhang in Wilton 2 is buried under an embankment. When the Ginnster arrived, we headed into Wilton 1. The only bit dry was the Graveyard area, so after traversing a bit to warm up we got stuck in. I did 5.2% ABV and Beer Belly low starts, the Ginnster crushing Beer Belly standing start (6b area I think) and 5.2% ABV (6a+/b) pretty convincingly. I turned my attention to The Move, one of R-man's 7a problems. I've never got close when I've tried it before, but today I was slapping the hold most goes. It's one of those where the target hold is a little sandy and sloping so I will need to catch it at the deadpoint. It'll definitely go though.

After this I managed the arete eliminate to the right and a fun double dyno on smears. And then it was time to go home. BeardyBeast is having a WoB evening, but I'm so tired I think I'll just fall asleep somewhere. Sorry BB, next time.


As I acheived none of my aims in 2010, most have rolled over with 2 substitutions to mix things up a bit:

1. Buckstone Dyno
2. Screaming Slave (Woodwell)
3. Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS
4. West Side Story
5. Jerry's Arete (Bridestones)
6. Sloping Beauty (Earl)
7. Underhand (Almscliff) May have to exchange this for The Keel as my finger doesn't like the slot.
8. Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow)
9. Red Wall Project Shhh, esoteric venue.
10. Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge)

For those with any vague interest, 2010 scores were 154:211 wet vs dry.