Friday, 29 April 2011

Fairy Steps Wedding

Dry days- 70
Days of rain- 43

The run of dry weather continues! I just hope this isn't our quota for the year. And today was William and Katherine's right Royal Wedding, so us plebs got an extra day off work.

And what better way to spend it than flailing around on the sitstart that beat me 2 days ago? There was less pressure of time today, so I got to rest properly. However, the first move was eluding me. In fact the second move was too. After a lot of failure, and many many oaths, I was getting really angry. But it made no difference. After many tries I was finally getting the first move done, it's very body position dependant. Then I was consistent on the second move- falling off every time.

Eventually I realised I could put my right foot on a crap dink which helped get the body position right for the cross over. And then in the end I managed to link it. Thank goodness for that, pain in the arse that it is.

After this I was wrecked, so I did Et Tu Brute which is an enjoyable traverse and then drove back home to recuperate, and grow some skin. I'm quite keen to get on Intellect SDS but I'm not sure of the approved Johnny G rules.

Fairy Steps Wedding from GCW on Vimeo.

Wednesday, 27 April 2011

A New Nemesis

Dry days- 68
Days of rain- 43

It was hot today, and I wasn't sure if I'd be getting out. My left index finger is still raw from Second Coming, so I was trying to think of places with slopers and Shuck's Lair popped into mind. I went here once with BeardyBeast a while ago and wasn't impressed but I thought I'd give it another go. The Doc was at a loose end so she tagged along.

The new approach is much better than the original, and we got ther easily enough. It was in direct sun and pretty hot and sweaty. As a lot of the starts seem to involve a campus move it wasn't long before we moved on to the Fairy Steps. I had a look at the Taliesin area, which I've never been to before. The sitter for the V4 crack was worth a look. Initially I was getting nowhere on the sit start, although the stand start was steady away. After a while I got all but the first move sussed and fairly solid. Eventually I managed the first move.

The link was elusive today, I got through the hard moves a few times only to botch a fairly easy, but quite powerful move, that transitions into the stand start. I was very annoyed, had reopened my split finger and had run out of time. So that's another to add to the to-do list.

Saturday, 23 April 2011


Dry days- 64
Days of rain- 43

This afternoon the Doc was off to see her father in Carnforth, so I tagged along and headed to Fairy Steps. It was hot, and very humid. Initially I headed to Aeon buttress and warmed up on Aeon Dyno. This still felt hard, although I used he poorer of the two footholds today and got closer to the move. I still can't get any decent push from my lanky legs, so I need to head back...... again.

I gave up, and headed back to the left upper tier. Only having an hour I threw myself into the V7 wall to the right of Second Coming. After my last spanking I had watched Greg's video and got some beta. After a number of tries I was getting close to holding the gaston in the crack, so I set up the HV20. After a few more goes I had it in the bag, very pleased as this had eluded me a few times before.

As I'd had some success i opted to try Second Coming, another problem that had whooped my ass every time I'd tried it. Today was no different, but then I started slapping the break a bit less wildly. And then it started getting less and less out of control. I held the start, albeit with a dab, so I dropped off and planned to do it properly. It then took a while, but just as the claret was starting from the tips of my left hand I caught the break, didn't dab, and topped out. Fantastic, two Nemeses in a day.

Just for fun I did the other problem on the block and then headed back. There's still the Aeon Buttress laughing at me, but I'm quite pleased by today- even if my skin has holes in it!!!!!!!!!

And a big medal for the BeardyBeast for an 8a flash in font, even if it was a traverse.

Ticked the Bloc from GCW on Vimeo.

Thursday, 21 April 2011


Dry days- 62
Days of rain- 43

I headed back to Cadshaw with the Pasty Lord tonight. I met him at the Red Wall where he was having a go at Brian Jacques. I had a few goes at the Arete Project, feeling more static on it. I think this will go, but it's hard to know which bit of the break (read "non hold") to slap for.

After this I tried my sitter into RoB, and was surprised to get the RH crimp properly, and turn it into a 4 finger crimped grip. I had a fair crack at then holding the left hand of the stand up starting holds, so I know I can do this, although it feels hard.

Then we opted to have a look at Twist, one of Olly Mueller's problems from ages ago. The Ginnster did it in a couple of tries using the back step method. I flashed it using the Lanky method. No surprises there.

We headed to have a look at the other wall mentioned in the old SLB guide as a project, across the river and up a slippery slope of death. There's an interesting flake line, reminiscent of a mirrored Hacker. It had a wasp nest in it that I got rid of, only for the solitary occupant to hang around buzzing angrily. We had a play on this, feels quite hard but it's quite dirty, then headed home via a much easier method that didn't involve death.

Progress made, and I'm pretty keen to get back and finish my project. Or should I say projects.

Twist from GCW on Vimeo.

Wednesday, 20 April 2011

Lime weather

Dry days- 61
Days of rain- 43

It has been hot today. Very hot. I hope it ain't this hot for the BeardyBeast in Bleau.

I headed to Fairy Steps today, hoping the sun would be diluted through the trees. First off I headed over to Democracy, a problem I've never tried. I warmed up by working it bit by bit and managed every move in control, nicely static. So then I had a crack at the link. I was surprised to do it first go, although the calm and control had gone and it was all a bit slappy. After this I did Cultural Elite Sign Up Sheet, then headed back for a crack at Aeon Dyno.

Three guys were at the Aeon Buttress on the way back so I left it and headed up to Walk Away. I did Intellect stand, then had a look at The Second Coming and the 7a+ wall to the right. As usual I failed on both. By this time it was super hot, my skin was sore and I had run out of drink so I headed home. Rematch in due course.

A couple of easy things at Fairy Steps from GCW on Vimeo.

Tuesday, 19 April 2011

Catch up

Dry days- 65
Days of rain- 43

The Doc and I went up to Glen Shiel on Friday for two nights in the Cluanie Inn. On Saturday we had a wander up some Munros, planning to do Carn Ghluasaid, Sgurr nan Conbhairean and Sail Chaorain. The MWIS forecast looked good, but in the event the cloud was down at 750m and it was cold and windy. After the first two Munros we decided to forget about Sail Chaorain and headed back to the pub. A bit awkward as I am now left with an awkward to access hill for the future. Fun day out anyway.

Monday I had an hour in the evening, so headed back to Cadshaw. The local population of Mosquitos met me at the Red Wall, and it felt a little greasy. The sitter to Rivers of Blood defeated me completely, the left hand crack hold making my finger go numb. I had a look at the Ginnster's project arete thing adn made some progress. I discovered that the high "edge" wasn't at all a hold, so the top is going to be hard. Really, it needs a ladder taking in for inspection/ cleaning. I think I will be heading back on Thursday with the Ginnster.

On a seperate note, the BeardyBeast has apparently left his laptop and camcorder at home. That may restrict his Font video making.

Wednesday, 13 April 2011

A day behind

Dry days- 60
Days of rain- 43

Yesterday I dropped in at Woodwell for an hour. It was dry and in OK condition. The BOBN hold has finally gone leaving a sloping hold in its place. I also note a bit has come off of the Closer/ Sanctified undercut, but it makes little difference.

I fell off the move to the lip on Screaming Slave for a while, then did Closer and What's This For the cheaty way. After this I went for a walk around the coast, then found the tea shop(s) aren't open on a Tuesday. Brill.

Monday, 11 April 2011

Rain, drizzle, mist, wind, and precipitation

Dry days- 58
Days of rain- 43

Today I had the whole day free, the last few days hve been hot and sunny. I was going to have a look at Guisecliff which is somewhere I've never been. The forecast didn't look great though, but why waste a day?

The day started out nice, but once at Guisecliff it became darker and more threatening. I landed up at the Mop Top block, and did the left side of the arete (well actually I didn't as I didn't top it out as the top was filthy).

I then wandered to have a look at A Little Sparkle, and as I arrived the rain started. It was drizzle at first, but enough to make all the smear slimy so I gave it up pretty quickly. I looked at Jesus Jelly Mould which needs a good scrub, then the heavens opened. I wandered back to the car getting soaked. Actually, I stomped up and down the hillside looking at all the other stuff, getting soaked.

So then I sat in the car eating my lunch and watching the horizontal rain thinking of what to do. I opted to risk a visit to Snowden as I knew the Tantric wall overhangs and the wind was in the right direction. I was right on this occasion, and the wall was dry- the top was soaked and there was some run off but it was dripping away from the rock.

I did Naked Yoga via a better sequence- this along with the rock stabilising means it's likely 6c. I then did The Bridge second try, but without the top out onto soaking slopers. Tantric Traverse still resisted. I find this really hard on the first move. I did it from the second move to the end, but that first span feels nails. I wonder if it's my unstable shoulder that does it?

So there you go, a wet day. Typical. And now I'm back home typing this and it's sunny again. Typical.

Wet Day In Yarkshar from GCW on Vimeo.

Thursday, 7 April 2011

Spanked.... again

Dry days- 55
Days of rain- 42

Tonight I went to West View, feeling rather tired. Basically I did all the stuff up to V5 and got a couple of the 6s worked out but didn't have enough in the tank. BeardyBeast and the Ginnster were looking strong as ever.

Fingers crossed for decent weather- I have a day or two free next week. Maybe an Almscliff rematch is in order..........

Wednesday, 6 April 2011


Dry days- 54
Days of rain- 42

I had a spare hour today so I risked a CyL trip despite the wet weather this morning. There was a lot of dripping/ seepage from the top and the top break. I stayed at the left end doing various easy traversing and up problems. After half an hour The Jeewooth arrived and not long after Serpico turned up, bemoaning his excessive bulk.

Anyway, I had an hour re-acquanting myself with CyL then had to rush off again. It just served to reinforce the areas of weakness- but that's a good thing isn't it??

Tuesday, 5 April 2011

Who'd Have Thought it?

Doing an 8 in the three main disciplines of rock isn't that common. Doing an 8 in all three disciplines in the style intended (ie onsight for trad etc) is less common.

BeardyBeast had managed the first two, flash of Doug (Roaches) and onsight solo of Boldness Through Ignorance (Cow's Mouth, E8 now the peg is gone) and font 8a boulder problems (eg La Puce at Canche). But being a bit of a punter, he hadn't managed a sport 8 (mainly as he hadn't been arsed I suspect).

Finally pulling his finger out he's gone and done a sport 8 at last- Moddey Dhoo 8a+ at Trollers Gill. The trio is complete.

BUT, what this also means is that he's gone and done a first ascent in each area, since Moddey Dhoo is a new route. Add this to That's My Lot (E8 7a, Rivelin Quarries, FA) and Snatch (font 8a, Denham), Tup's Traverse (8a, Isle of Man FA), Titus Gaukroger (font 8a/+, Mytholm FA) and Nik's Wall (font 8a+, Rivelin FA) and it's quite an impressive acheivement (but don't tell the Beardy One I said that or he'll need bigger hats).

All I can say is "Medal Time":

If only he did any coaching..........

Sunday, 3 April 2011

New Problems at Wet Poo

Dry days- 52
Days of rain- 41

It dawned a nice day, but by 7:30 it was raining. I headed over to Wilton One to see if Snakey B would be dry, but there was an offensive cloying low cloud that had soaked everything, so I headed to West View instead.

The problems have been reset. As I only had an hour, I threw myself into them and did most of the stuff up to V5, flashing most of these. When I finished I was pretty pumped so went away fairly happy. Need to get a bit stronger though if I'm going to finish my Aims for 2011!!!