Saturday 23 April 2011

Rematch

Dry days- 64
Days of rain- 43

This afternoon the Doc was off to see her father in Carnforth, so I tagged along and headed to Fairy Steps. It was hot, and very humid. Initially I headed to Aeon buttress and warmed up on Aeon Dyno. This still felt hard, although I used he poorer of the two footholds today and got closer to the move. I still can't get any decent push from my lanky legs, so I need to head back...... again.

I gave up, and headed back to the left upper tier. Only having an hour I threw myself into the V7 wall to the right of Second Coming. After my last spanking I had watched Greg's video and got some beta. After a number of tries I was getting close to holding the gaston in the crack, so I set up the HV20. After a few more goes I had it in the bag, very pleased as this had eluded me a few times before.

As I'd had some success i opted to try Second Coming, another problem that had whooped my ass every time I'd tried it. Today was no different, but then I started slapping the break a bit less wildly. And then it started getting less and less out of control. I held the start, albeit with a dab, so I dropped off and planned to do it properly. It then took a while, but just as the claret was starting from the tips of my left hand I caught the break, didn't dab, and topped out. Fantastic, two Nemeses in a day.

Just for fun I did the other problem on the block and then headed back. There's still the Aeon Buttress laughing at me, but I'm quite pleased by today- even if my skin has holes in it!!!!!!!!!

And a big medal for the BeardyBeast for an 8a flash in font, even if it was a traverse.



Ticked the Bloc from GCW on Vimeo.

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