New Routing

Dry days- 138
Days of rain- 131

This morning I met up with R-Man at the Wiltons for some looking-for-new-stuff action. We wandered through Wilton Four, which was wet, then Two (which was wet) and then to Three, which was half wet. In the end we headed to W1, which was also pretty wet.

We wandered down to the far left end, noting a couple of possible lines and doing some cleaning and tidying. Then we headed back to the Outside of the Prow. This was also fairly damp, but we had noted a couple of things to try and got to work.

The arete left of Fingernail went at around 6b- we had planned to do it on the right, but the logical line started on the right then skipped round left to the jug. We then looked at the wall to the right, which didn't get on with me. My right foot kept popping, so I tried a more direct using a foul LH sidepull that was only 2 tips and threatened pulley injury or laceraction. I gave up, but R-Man persevered and was ultimately successful using a typical R-Man sequence.

I looked at the wall further right, the stand up going at 6a+ ballpark. The sitter was an onvious challlenge, and a few minutes with a trowel flattened the ground and revealed a decent foothold. I sorted the moves, but it took time to link. Eventually Pocket Wall was born, it felt about 7a today but it was a little damp so take that with a pinch of salt. Still more to go back for, and then there's R-Man's guide.......

Video

Should've gone to Woodwell

Dry days- 134
Days of rain- 128

The weather has been pretty rubbish recently, and I'm on school run and therefore didn't have too long. I had originally planned to head to Woodwell, but in the end I went to Wilton One.

First up I had a look at the block in the hillside opposite the Prow as I'd never looked at it before. It yielded a nice wall problem at about 6b, tough first move. Then an arete on its left, about 5, and another wall round right of equal difficulty. I also did a nice dyno at about 6a, but a nice move.

After this I wandered past Remembarete, which was green and soaking, and ended up at the Prow. I did Get Your Font Tick Here, quite a nice set of moves, then had a couple of goes at Robin's dyno which I failed utterly on- I'm presuming he used a high right foot, but this put me well off balance. I got very close to the Yoga Dyno, frustrating, then did a little traverse across from here. At this point I managed to get a shard of glass stuck in my left index finger. It went in pretty deep and I had to pull it out with my teeth. It wouldn't stop bleeding, so I ended up calling it a day. I'll need to keep an eye on it as it's a prime wound for flexor sheath/ pulp space infection.

Crap little vid will no doubt follow soon.

Wilton Two

Dry days- 132
Days of rain- 124

I had a spare hour, so what better way to spend it than in Wilton Two looking at R-Man problems. I looked at Purple Feel, which was in the sun and roasting. I managed the first couple of moves OK, but the move to get the left hand into the slot puzzled me. I never nailed this one.

The Down Low was in the shade and thus next up. I did it in a few goes, keeping the left heel on rather than spinning round to a right heel a la R-Meister. This then made me think about a lower start, from the left arete into The Down Low. I had a look but one move releasing a toe hook was hard to do. I got it done after numerous goes, felt about 7a to me. I did the left arete on its own at 6b, both aretes at 6b adn failed to do a slap to the apex at around 6c+/7a due to ruined skin- the arete is sharp!!

Sp once more, stuff to get back on. A day of heels 'n' toes.

Drizzle and WoR

Dry days- 131
Days of rain- 124


I headed up to Woodwell today, after chatting to Weak Sam yesterday (he mentioned the left crimp on AOSD looks like it has been chipped). It was pretty drizzly all morning, but started drying up towards midday. I couldn't be bothered with the Wall, so I opted to risk an outdoor trip.

WoR, if I had theoretically gone there, would have been dry but a little greasy. If I'd tried climbing there I would have written the following account:


I had a look at Deal in Pain. It didn't take long to suss what was required. The sitter into the RH hand undercut was easy, a sneaky left hand sidepull/ undercut thing helped sort the feet to get the left hand edge static. The next two moves are the meat of the problem. I was getting a right foot lock in the obvious cup shaped hole, although the little spike was agony. This allowed me to slap the high right hand sidepull, and almost hold it. The limiting facgtor here was the amount of pain the footlock caused. Deal with the pain, too right. After this I had a brief look at Prohibition Exhibition, but my first failed slap suggested more than one mat was required. I did Australian Werewolf in Silverdale, then had a few more plays on Deal in Pain. Once the heel pain was too much, I left for home.

So, I'm off tomorrow afternoon so I may have a look at the Wiltons, there's still some newer R-Man problems I haven't tried. I'm hoping to get out a bit more from now on, now things are settling more. Been getting the itch the last few weeks when I've been busy!!