Yorkshire Lanks Part 2

More footage from sessions on the Yorkshire Gritstone; this time Almscliff.

Problems: Steve's Wall 7a+, Below the Decks 6c+, Underhand 7b+, Underhand Extension 7c, Crucifix Traverse 7a, Crucifix Reverse into Crucifix Arete 7a+, Dolphin Belly Slap 7a, Dreamland 7a+, Hot Dog Fromage Variation 7b, Traverse 6c, Traverse into Morrell's Wall 7a, Pebble Wall 6c+, Pistol Whip 7b, Si's Arete 7a+, Syrett's Roof 6c+, The Keel 7c

Climbers: Keith Bradbury, Andy Crome, Arran Deakin, Jim Hilliard, Nik Jennings, Adam Lincoln, GCW and Amber.

Sorry some of it is speeded up but I struggling getting a decent file size.  The UKBouldering crew had a great day out in October 2008, cold conditions and some great ticks!



  Yorkshire Lanks Part 2 from GCW on Vimeo.

Yorkshire Lanks Part 1

Some old footage of Yorkshire with Nik, Amber and my late father.

GCW and Nik at Work enjoying God's own rock.

The Kebs (Bridestones)  -  Damned Spanky SDS 7b, Nine 7a, Holdless 7a+, Horror Arete 6c, Out of Sight 7a, 7b Wall, Jerry's Arete failure, Small and Smart 6b, Smarter 6b, Traverse 6b+, Cheeseblock Arete failure (I hate this problem!!)

Buckstones (Nont Sarah's) -  Pig in a Pokey 7a+

Music:  DJ Quicksilver - Eye of the Tiger, The Stone Roses - Made of Stone (808 State Mix)



Yorkshire Lanks Part 1 from GCW on Vimeo.



http://vimeo.com/81830461

Brownstones re-edit

Old HD footage of bouldering at Brownstones.  I've got a load more on film but it's all old SD footage, and we don't want that sort of thing do we?

Bouldering at Brownstones Quarry near Bolton.

Big Muff 7a+, Lifeline SDS 7b, Groundhog Start 7a, Bloopers 6a+, Dezertion Eliminate 7b, Unpinched 7a+, Unjustice 7a, Lancashire PotHot 7a+, Nexus Dyno 6b, The Bad 7a+, Nightlife 7a, Dynostrung 6a (FA), The I.L.T. Dyno 6a (FA), Pigswill 6c+ (sitter 7a), Pigswill no tricks 7a+, PP 7a+, Ridiculous Dyno 7a+, Ridiculous Eliminate 7a+/b

Climbers: GCW, Robin Mueller, Andrew Emery
Music by Egebamyasi




Brownstones Quarry Bouldering from GCW on Vimeo.

Board Room Finished

The matting came yesterday, and is all in situ (thanks to Steve from Holdz).  It's really nice and the room is now finished (apart from a handful of holds still to go up).  We all had a play on the Wall of Lank last night.  Now it's time to get strong.  I'll have to get the Pasty Lord round to give me some tips.

I've not heard from the Beardy Beast in ages - are you ok out there?

Rivington Trail 26

We did the Rivington Trail event yesterday. Quite windy and very muddy but very enjoyable.

I missed out on the 5:30 I wanted to get, but managed 5:39:36. Iron Man was a shade over five hours. Mini Dude 2 came second in the kids 1k race, Bon effort. I'm looking forward to the Howgills and Grizedale Trail 26 events now.

Carcass

YYFY!  Finally seen them live. They were amazing. They played my favourite song, CJQ, a great mix of tracks from all albums, and Ken's drum solo was really rather moving.

Driving home now as I have a little run in the morning. Buzzing!!!!

Rain

We did the Rivington Nightrunner 10k on Sunday in torrential rain and fog.  I got a little lost up on the moor and romped home in a pathetic 1:17:33.  The Iron Man was a shade over 1 hour.  The kids did the 1km race and seemed to have fun.

We ran 17k yesterday along the last section of the Rivington Ultra 26 course, got soaked again.  The weather has been rotten to say the least.  Saturday I am off to Damnation to see Carcass, then the 26 is on Sunday.  Hopefully I'll get under 5:30 for it.

I think I've got the matting for the Board Room sorted.  I've played on the Wall of Lank a few times, feeling a little less weak but a loooong way to go yet.

Nearly there

The Board Room is getting there now.  A few weeks ago I finished off the board itself, and lined the kid's wall with plywood (attached to the wall with MultiMontis, of course).  I've put on most of teh bolt on holds I have, other than 8 of the wooden holds (I haven't got a big enough Allen key!) and a couple of the Moon jugs (I had run out of long bolts).  I have quite a few screw on foot dinks to add, but I'll have to play on the board more to see where they are to go.  The kids board has 2 problems set so far.

I only got around to clearing out the room last week and tidied everything through - now there is no junk in there, I have measured up for matting and got a quote.  I'll finalise this and get it ordered ASAP. 

I had a play on the Board yesterday, and set a couple of problems which I can't do and which will no doubt end up being 6a+ or something stupid.  I'll need to get the BeardyBeast or Pasty Lord here to calibrate my grading radar.


Lateral view:

AP view:

I am incredibly weak, and everything felt very hard.  Hopefully that is motivation in itself......

Back in the game!

The new impact driver charger is here and working well.  What a Godsend, sooooo much quicker.  So, progress has occurred today.

Bottom of three boards in situ:

Two boards in position:

I've run out of bolts, so I've ordered more.  I only have another 40 T nuts and each board takes 60, so progress may slow a little. Pleased so far though.

One layer done

I've made more progress on the board in the last couple of days. A bit slower as the impact driver charger died so I'm awaiting a new one. I had to adjust one one strut as it wasn't quite in line but otherwise there haven't been any issues...... Yet.


 


 Main frame- middle rafter still needs to be attached to the frame with joist hangers:
 


 Kick board finished:
 

L'homme de fer and other stories

Back in Blighty after two weeks in France.  It was too hot for me.  Had a great time though.  Short video here:


France 2013 from GCW on Vimeo.



As an aside, Mr H did his Iron Man at Bolton last weekend (from now on he shall be called Mr Iron).  An inspiring performance, 2.4 mile swim + 112 mile cycle + run a marathon, all in 13 hours, 34 minutes and 3 seconds!!  Awesome.  Video courtesy of the Turnock Family:






I've spent today working on the Wall of Lank.  All the beams are now in, and I've added a couple of stabilising cross members as well as a second transverse joist which is MultiMonty and Wall hanger fixed in the same way as the top beam.  Coming along nicely and feeling very solid.

As an aside, a recent comment on the 2nd Silverdale video has highlighted grade discrepancies.  Quite Right Mr C, 6a+ from now on.

Update

Tonight I've sweated all the fluid from my eyeballs, but at least I now have three struts in position. Held up with a beam-to-beam joist hanger at the top and a joist hanger to stabilise the bottom end into a brick wall, these seem pretty solid. I've put them 30cm apart, meaning there will be eight struts for approximately 210cm width. Pleased.

Committed

I've had a couple of very hot hours measuring and checking. I've managed to fit the first strut, which is the hardest as it doesn't rest on the floor due to a brick wall butting out: the bottom needed to be fixed off the floor but obviously parallel to future beams. I think I've got it right! The is fixed directly to the wall with Multi Montis (these really are awesome) plus a joist hanger at the bottom, more for assisting me with positioning than anything else. Crap photo of the joist- gives an idea of angle (32 degrees) and an idea of how I'm planning this out:

Progress

On Saturday I bought a length of 2"x6", some brackets and screws and some MultiMontis.

Today I went to Chez Beast, who has very kindly donated some scaffolding and other bits. Today I've fitted the cross beam that will be the main weight bearing part of the board.

Beam attached to the right wall. This is a brick wall, attachment with four 10mm Multi Montis:

Left end of beam, wall is made of breeze block. Attached with a joist hanger that sits into the wall (slot cut) plus four rawl plugged screws:

Beam in situ, sorry it's not the clearest picture. 

Board: The beginning

As I'm about to start on the board project I thought I'd blog about it as others may find it useful in future.

Yesterday, I met up with the BeardyBeast.  As he is moving he has taken down the Wall of Burl and wasn't able to shift the larger lumps of wood.  He very kindly donated a lot of it to me, greatly appreciated.

So fifteen 4m and longer 2x4" bits of wood have moved from Chez Beast:

To Chez Lank:

There's something nice about the heart of the WoB becoming a new board, Wall of Lank?

And thanks to Mike for all the UKB efforts.  Legend.

Lancashire Lanks Video Series Part 3

Part 3 of the esoterica series visits the excellent Stronstrey Bank Quarry, developed originally by Robin Mueller and later by myself. This quarry contains some excellent problems and gives some amazing sunsets.

I have also changed the music on the Lancs Lanks part 1 video as it was exactly the same as the Font video.  Ooops.


The problems:
Bob On 6c (2nd ascent)
Cackhanded Compliment 6b+
David Vetter 7a+ (FA)
Tony Bland Dyno 6b+ (FA)
Wurz to come 5+ (FA)
Bratwurz 6a (FA)
Wurz than that, Jim 6c (FA)
Wurzealous 6c+ (2nd ascent)
Spanners 6b (FA)
Tony Bland Mantel 6a+ (FA)
Love Handle 4+
Mirth of the Ducks (3rd ascent)
Phat Haendel 6b
Phat Haendel Direct 6c (FA)
TREEEOH 6c (2nd ascent)
Sans Arete 7a (FA)

Climbers: GCW, Nik at work, MadMac
Music by Queen: Headlong, Teo Torriate (let us cling together)



Lancashire Lanks Series - Part 03 from GCW on Vimeo.

Lancashire Lanks Video Series Part 2

More esoteric first ascents and quality problems in unexpected places.

Jumbles - Clown's Pocket Direct 7a (FA), Project Dyno, The Crescent of Embrace 7b (FA), Flight 93 7a (FA), Clown's pocket 6b+, Sit Thee Down 7a (2nd ascent)

Lower Montcliffe Quarry - Bach 7a+ (FA), Dinosaur Adventure 3D 6c+, Indian Face SDS 7a, Maid in Stone 7a (2nd ascent)

Parbold Quarry - Etna Eliminate 6b+ (FA), Fundamentalist 6c-ish, Mentalist 6b, Vesuvius variation 6b

Climbers: GCW, Nik at Work, Robin Mueller, Andy Emery, Rick Ginns

Music: Laurent Garnier - Crispy Bacon, Photek - The Hidden Camera



Lancashire Lanks Series - Part 02 from GCW on Vimeo.

Lancashire Lanks Video Series Part 1

Esoterica at its best!
An oddball collection of videos (and climbers) from various Lancashire venues.

Blackstone Edge - Arete 5+, Ape Hour 7a+, Nose 6a+, Slap 6b, Whale 6a+
Cadshaw - Brian Jacques 7a (2nd ascent), Jump Arete SDS 7a+ (FA), Rivers of Blood SDS 7b+ (FA), Twist 6a, Cadger 6b, Cadswallop 6a+ (FA)
Craig Y Longridge - Seven A 6a+
Healey Nab - Barmfingers 6b (2nd ascent), Heely Grab 6a+ (FA), Pop 5+, Slaptasm 6a, Slime Pillar 6a+ (FA), The Coolboy Slap 6a (FA), The Stretch 7a+ (FA), Titanium Traverse 7a (FA)

Climbers: GCW, Rick Ginns, Robin Mueller, Bruce Goodwin, Andrew Emery, Sam Dewhurst
Music by Faith No More - The Real Thing, From Out Of Nowhere


Lancashire Lanks Series - Part 01 from GCW on Vimeo.

Manchester Marathon 2013

Bizarrely, I started and finished at the same time as a friend. My chip time gives a two minute difference?!?

My updated (29/4/2013) chip time was 4:23:45 which correlates with watch time.

Much less wet , cold and muddy this year hence the 15 minutes less on the time.

Splits:                 2013             2012

10km                 0:56:23          1:05:28
10 Mile              1:32:03          1:44:31
Half Marathon    2:01:25          2:16:36
20 Mile              3:14:47          3:30:29
Finish                 4:23:45          4:38:59

Lake District Video Re-Edit

This is the re-edit of various bits of Lake District footage.  Parts of it were filmed just after I snapped my A2, so the easier stuff was part of my rehab.

Chapel Stile - H&M Smith Traverse 6a+, Ly'al Fella's Wall 7a??, Pocket Slab Centre 5, Pocket Slab Far Right 6a, Wall 1 5+, Wall 2 5
Gouther - Four Winds Wall 7a+ (fail), Renegade NED 7a, Trev's Traverse 7a (fail)
Kentmere - Badger Arete SDS 6c+, Blow Yer Ballast 6b, Middle Earth 7a+/b, Negative Reality Inversion 7a+
Langdale Boulders - Problem 13 6c+, problem 18 7a, The Mantel 6b

Climbers - GCW and Rick Ginns, with a cameo from Sam Davenhall.
Music by Gordon Lightfoot.


Lake District Bits 01 from GCW on Vimeo.



http://vimeo.com/64553155

Rivington Ultra Trail Marathon

The official Rivington Ultra Trail 26 was postponed due to deep snow. We decided to run it unofficially today.  43km, over 1000m ascent. I struggled with the heat in the middle section which wiped me out. We did it in 5:50:02, which is below our 6 hour aim.  Still a little disappointing that I was shit.

Night Series Done

http://www.thenightrunner.co.uk/

Really good fun!

15/12/2012  Delamere Forest Festive Fun  48:56
12/1/2013  Rivington Close Encounters  54:27
16/2/2013  Formby Valentines Massacre   47:42

Fontainebleau Video Re-Edit

Bouldering in Fontainebleau with Nik at work, GCW, Rick, Mike and Baz with a cameo from Andi "funky beanie" E.

La Roche aux Sabots- Zen 7a, Jet Set 7a
Apremont Bizons- 7a Wall fail
Bas Cuvier- Le Super Prestat 7b+ fail
Bois Rond- Toubib or not Toubib 7a
Buthiers- Attention Chef d'Oeuvres fail 7a
Canche aux Merciers- Blue 15, Keo 7a?, Mardis Gras 7a
Franchard Cuisiniere- Le Mouton a 5 pattes 7a, le Mouton a 6 Pattes 7a
Franchard Isatis- The Real Thing "7a Double Dyno", Abdolobotomy 7a
l'Elephant- Le Lepreux Direct 7a
Maunoury- l'Oeil de Boite dans l'Epaule 7a
Potala- le Petit Toit Ocre Direct 6c+
Rocher Canon- leve la Patte 7a?

Fontainebleau 2010/2011 from GCW on Vimeo.