Saturday 15 October 2011

Repeating

Dry days- 148
Days of rain- 140

I went back to the Wiltons today. I headed to Wilton 3 initially and had a look at the small roof, but it was in the shade and therefore cold and not the best place to warm up. I wandered across to Wilton 2, but there were some guys there shooting. I don't think they were part of the gun club as they parked outside the gate, evidently not having as key, and hadn't put a flag up. So because of the L255OEV boys, I sacked it off and went to Wilton One.

The Outside of the Prow was much drier than when I went with R-Man, so I had a look there. My own Pocket Wall Sitter went down quite easily, and felt more 6c in the dry. I then looked at Robin's Wall, and tried it using my original method. This time I was pulling on with the left hand nasty sidepull, then got a high RH to a shit sharp crimp. Then slap left to the obvious sloper crimp, sort feet and a crux slap to the finishing edge. Felt about 7a+ to me. After this I did the sitter to something R-man and I had looked at before but not really tried. This started off a big flatty, snatched up right to a sidepull and then another snatch to a higher sidepull. After this a tenuous high foot gained the finishing edge- 6b+ I felt.

After this I tried Midgesquito Crimpelopes, and was slapping up to the left hand crimp but never held it. I think this is one to go back to. Anyway, video:


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