Wednesday 28 September 2011

New Routing

Dry days- 138
Days of rain- 131

This morning I met up with R-Man at the Wiltons for some looking-for-new-stuff action. We wandered through Wilton Four, which was wet, then Two (which was wet) and then to Three, which was half wet. In the end we headed to W1, which was also pretty wet.

We wandered down to the far left end, noting a couple of possible lines and doing some cleaning and tidying. Then we headed back to the Outside of the Prow. This was also fairly damp, but we had noted a couple of things to try and got to work.

The arete left of Fingernail went at around 6b- we had planned to do it on the right, but the logical line started on the right then skipped round left to the jug. We then looked at the wall to the right, which didn't get on with me. My right foot kept popping, so I tried a more direct using a foul LH sidepull that was only 2 tips and threatened pulley injury or laceraction. I gave up, but R-Man persevered and was ultimately successful using a typical R-Man sequence.

I looked at the wall further right, the stand up going at 6a+ ballpark. The sitter was an onvious challlenge, and a few minutes with a trowel flattened the ground and revealed a decent foothold. I sorted the moves, but it took time to link. Eventually Pocket Wall was born, it felt about 7a today but it was a little damp so take that with a pinch of salt. Still more to go back for, and then there's R-Man's guide.......


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