Wednesday 23 March 2011

Cadshaw Rematch

Dry days- 45
Days of rain- 37

I was on my way to teaching this morning but I was made very late by the M6 being busy, so ended up sacking it off as a bad plan. As nobody else was free I headed to Cadshaw for a look at one of my remaining projects. It was hot, and sunny. When I got to the Red Wall I found it was dry, but still with that greasiness that the red rock has.

I tried my sit start to the jump to the jug on the right arete, which I did from standing last year. I wasn't making much progress really. Then it struck me to try the wall directly. Brian Jacques start seated then uses the left arete to finish right again. I'd always dismissed the direct as the 2 edges are pretty rubbish and I've never managed to pull on them before. Today I managed to pull on, and the idea was there to be made reality. It took a while to get near the LH higher edge, but eventually I latched it- my feet cut loose at that point and I wasn't able to hold the edge. After a few more goes, I latched it again and then manaaged to slap my way up the rest of it. Rivers of Blood was done, I reckon 7a although it's so conditions dependant it could be a bit inaccurate. I then worked the sitter, one move stopped me but I think this will go, felt in the 7b/+ ballpark.

After this my skin was a bit ragged so I wandered off to Brownstones, which turned out to be scorching in the sun. LifeLine sitter was in poor condition and felt hard, I couldn't even pull onto Groundhog SDS so I headed to Ridiculous Dyno, which I stikll don't have on HD film. I always seem to try this on super hot days, although today I held the finish for a few seconds on my 4th try. Then I spent another half hour failing to do it. Arse. Once it made holes in my skin I gave it up and wandered home.

So I still have my original Cadshaw project to do, although it's not as pure a line as the potential sitter to RoB. I will grow some skin and head back pover sometime.



Rivers of Blood 7a, Cadshaw FA from GCW on Vimeo.

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