Wilton One

Dry days- 29
Days of rain- 32

It was sunny this afternoon when I was off so I took myself to Wilton for a rematch. Chunks of fingertape to the injured finger seemed to do the trick, although it hurt like hell. When I arrived I was appalled by the amount of chalk caked all over the graveyard buttress, along with tick marks and fingertape on the floor. I tidied up as best as I could then moved to Snakey B wall.

I jumped on Thulsa Doom as a warm up, not the best plan as it was cold and I had forgotten the sequence. After a few goes I remembered how to do the first half, then surprised myself by getting into position for the crux move on Snakey B Original. This was a gutbuster move to pull the greasy undercut from chest level to hip level. One move better than ever, but I kept popping off the left hand undercut. Over and over. In the end I gave up on it and moved back to the graveyard.

The Move. Is this really 7a? It's a single move that is nails. Today I was closer than ever, and on a few occasions semi held the finishing hold until my foot popped. Frustrating. I even tried a left heel/ right toe combo to try to squeeze the rib, but it was super committing and also felt harder. In the end I sacked it and did some of the eliminates on the Graveyard Slab then went home.

Please don't use loads of chalk all over the place on the Graveyard area, a lot of it doesn't get soaked by the rain so it doesn't wash off so well. Let's not get into the habit of it.