Pastures New

Dry days- 78
Days of rain- 72

This morning dawned wet, rain rain rain. So much for a Silverdale session. The Doc was heading out for a run this morning so I opted to do the same. I did a variation on the usual, chopping it down to 7-and-a-bit km, managing it in 41:03 (average of 10.5kmh). I think I will need to get more miles in before the Cross Bay Challenge.

This afternoon I went over to the BeardyBeast's, the original plan being to have a WoB session. Unfortunately, neither of us felt particularly up to that so after a brew the plan morphed into a trip to Rokt in Brighouse. After registration, we had a wander round the place- it's quite big and has quite a few rooms and a comp board. The comp board felt hard to me, it's pretty steep really. I managed to flash a V6 in one of the rooms (but it wasn't really V6, more like V4) and did one of BeardyBeast's yellow problems second go, although it wasn't V7 for someone of my height. But don't tell him I said it was easier for the tall, we'll never hear the end of it.

Funny wall really, lots of potential but rather dark- lighting needs sorting, you're either blinded or can't see- and some rooms are cramped meaning a lot of waiting for others to finish their problem. But it's nice to go somewhere new.

Weak

Dry days- 78
Days of rain- 70

Weather is still a bit duff. I had an hour this morning so went to Wet Poo, basically being a bit crap. I failed on the knee smasher V6.... again. And I flashed one of the new V5/6s in the cave. How does that work. Skin's sore now though.

I was potentially going up Silverdale way tomorrow/ Monday with the BeardyBeast, but we'll have to see what the sky sends our way.

Bad knees

Dry days- 78
Days of rain- 68

Crap weather continues!

I headedto West View after work. Schoolboy error- forgot drink and chalkbag. Luckily Nike Air was there, so after a brief chat (he had customers) he wangled me a chalk bag from lost property (thanks J) and I got down to work.

Basically I was shite. I failed to do the V6 that I failed on last time, doing the crux a few times before cocking it up. To add insult to injury my right foot popped off on one occasion sending my right knee into high speed impact with a hold. Ouch.

After this I did a few more V5s and below, then did all the moves on a V7 but ended up with sore skin. After 2 hours I left and headed home for a cold beer.

More Running

Dry days- 78
Days of rain- 66

The weather has been very variable- sun, wind rain. I was half thinking about about going out tonight, but wasn't convinced anything would be dry. As it was clear asnd sunny when I got home, it just felt wrong to go indoors to some hot sweaty chalk filled wall.

I decided to go for a run, especially as it's less than 9 weeks until the cross bay challenge. I did a shorter version of my last route and covered 12.2km in 1 hour 15 mins 50 seconds, pretty much 9.6kmh. I feel pretty good after it which is a nice change. I am still looking forward to this Cross Bay half marathon, but then if that goes OK then there's always longer runs. But that's a dangerous thought, marathons and all that. I will put that line of thought to one side for now.

I need to get bouldering again, still aims to acheive and 7C seems more elusive than ever. But let's stay positive and psyched, and belief will no doubt help move me in the right direction. A big up to The Coolboy for his recent 7B+ sends, effort!!

Accurate Weather Forecast?

Dry days- 77
Days of rain- 65

The forecasts said rain overnight, then today would be dry. After liaising with BeardyBeast we opted to have a look at Ilkley. It was sunny, but very windy when we arrived. We had a look at Chariots of Fire Eliminate again, although I'd totally forgotten my sequence and had to start again. After some time I did all the moves again, but it's still going to be a bugger for me to link.

BeardyBeast had 2 burns, falling on the last little bit. Then came the rain. We bailed and wandered over to Ron's Traverse, neither of us having looked at it. The rain stopped long enough to have a quick go, but then returned with a veangance and didn't go. We retired to the car to sip hot drinks from the cafe.

As an aside, there's been more chipping going on. Photos clickable for full size image.


"Hannah, James, Lauren, Faith, Jasper" on the Chariots of Fire Buttress- this has appeared in the last 72 hours.





"Here resting Susan Brown RIP" just left of Chariots Buttress.





"L. Copley" at the bottom of First Arete

Remind me in future......

Dry days- 77
Days of rain- 62

Earl Crag. The hardest thing I've done there is the John Dunne Slap, it always kicks may arse. I just don't get on with the place- it destroys my skin and kicks my arse every time.

Anyway, today I had some free time. I wanted to head to Silverdale really, but it's been so wet recently I thought it would be wet. Earl it was. First off I had a look at Jim Purchon's 7b under the monument, and got pretty close to getting the hold you leap for. But the left hand hold has a pebble, and it wasn't friendly so I sacked that off. I failed to make any progress on Handy Andy's, desperate. I had a look at Andy Brown's Wall, getting the sidepull quite easily but then getting spat off from the last move. I was OK moving feet about to get set up, but on one try my right hand slipped off and I ripped a fingernail off- message received, move on.

I looked at the Gimp/ the Flakes / Lager Lager Lager, but by then the spirit was broken and after half heartedly pulling on to these problems, I admitted defeat.

Ilkley- another place I don't get on with. in fact most of ghe visits have been after running from Earl with tail-between-legs. Ringpiece kicked my ass, the move I could do before defeated me- partly due to tired legs, the 11 mile run has obviously had some effect. I then went and looked at Chairiots of Fire Eliminate, doing all the moves steadily. This could be a good one to try, but I'm shite at stamina so it coiuld be a bit of a seige.

So if I suggest an Earl visit, please remind me of all this........

A transition from doubt

Dry days- 75
Days of rain- 62

After I registered for the Morecambe Cross Bay Challenge in a fit of success and wine, I woke yesterday to the realisation that 13.1 miles across wet sand and rivers may not be that easy. I wondered to myself if this was a bridge too far, a thought that sat in my mind all of yesterday.

I finished at a reasonable time today, so I put on my shoes and went for a run in the drizzle. I had a vague idea of where I was going but no real plans and no idea of distance. I wanted to see how far I could go, so I set off at rest pace and just kept going.

Somewhere around a mile from home my legs were going, but I made it back OK. After checking distances online I have managed to do 10.8 miles, in 1:54:45 (although that includes time spent waiting at crossings etc) which gives an average of 9.1kmh- certainly not fast but I know I can do a half marathon now and if I kept up that pace it would be in 2 hours 20 minutes, although I am under no illusions that the Cross Bay Challenge will be tough and no place for a PB.

Tired now, but quite pleased. Need a bit more prep before the day, and it should be OK.

Pissed off with the weather though, totally shite.

Manchester 10k

Dry days- 75
Days of rain- 60

Blob 2 had her super exciting mega fun birthday party yesterday, so we all had sugar and E-number fuelled kids to deal with. More excitement when BeardyBeast needed a jump start due to forgetfulness. My knee has been pretty bad recently and I wasn't even sure if I was going to do the Manchester 10k.

I was taking the Doc to Manchestah anyway as she was doing the race, so I decided to give it a go. It was cold and rainy today, not ideal but at least it was cooler than it has been for sometime. I ended up doing the run, taking a rucksack full of coats along the way. Other than the bad knee I felt pretty decent, although by no means was I pushing it. I managed to get around OK, my stopwatch said 56:14 but the electronic chip time will be out soon.

I've been thinking about doing the Morecambe Bay half marathon- after today I'm even more keen, looks like a really interesting day out. In fact, I may go and register right now.

Bugger

Either the wall or my recent return to running has annoyed my left knee. It's never been right since Magic Bus and the last time I started training for a 10k it flared up. I thought last time it was a meniscal pathology, and the fact it settled down meant I'd left it alone. I'll have to see what it does long term, but it has pissed me off somewhat.

So the question this week is this: do I go running again to train for the Manc Run, risking annoying it more? Or rest it until the run itself, relying on basic fitness to muddle through. The was it is today I'm thinking the latter.

Crap Indoors As Usual

Dry days- 75
Days of rain- 52

I had an hour at Wet Poo today, before an afternoon at work. I felt battered actually, dragging myself up lots of V4/5 things and getting close to a few V6s. Fingers are quite sore too.

The fact the last few days have been wet means Red Wall will be out for a bit, projects will have to wait for a bit.

The Weather Breaks

Dry days- 75
Days of rain- 50

Today it rained- I am really pleased to have got Rivers of Blood done yesterday.

As it was raining I thought I'd go for a run, especially as I have the Manchester 10k in 2 weeks or so and I haven't run since November. I did the local circuit after work, 4.83km in 23:50 (12.2kmh) in the rain. It felt OK, but I could do with doing some longer runs to get stamina back.

Whilst running it occurred to me that I could link the sitter of RoB into my 6b Jump Arete- I reckon this would be a notch harder than RoB SDS. But the rain needs top bugger off first.

YYFY

Dry days- 75
Days of rain- 43

This afternoon I had a couple of hours free, and as the forecast suggests rain soon I opted to look at Cadshaw again.

On the way over the fire of Anglezarke Moor was evident, having spread across to Wheelton Moor over as far as the A675. Quite a decent burn area, reinforced by the number of fire engines around.

Red Wall wsa in pretty decent nick. I spent a while trying the various moves on the Red Wall, before getting sucked into my project. After a lot of trying I managed to link from the LH crack and RH sidepull to the finish of the stand up of Rivers Of Blood (that nobody else can do as they can't reach the starting holds?!?).

After a lot more trying I finally did the project. It felt super hard, I'll suggest 7b+, but also very morpho (my solution involved a dynamic slap at full stretch for me) and condition dependant. Really really pleased though, it's a cool problem.

So there was the little matter of the Rick's Arete project. Shit, this is also pretty tough. And as my skin was trashed and ROB had given me a flapper, I left it for another day- and headed home happy. And psyched for more. YYFY.

Rivers of Blood from GCW on Vimeo.

Esoterica

Dry days- 72
Days of rain- 43

A day at Fairy Steps. The Trick and beyond!

Greg's guide mentions a couple of things of V6 and above beyond The Trick. I explored a bit, eventually finding the V6 wall. This ended up being a really hard pull on, then a slap for the top. it took a while to get the move sussed but then it was dans le sac.

I then did the rib to the left, although I didn't top out as there was a big loose block.

Then back to The Trick, and the sitter. After trying to do The Trick via my original sequence:

The Trick Font 7a/+ from GCW on Vimeo.

I suddenly found a Trick involving a left foot lock. After a bit I managed to link from the sitter, albeit via a not--as-eliminate as before sequence.

This weather is pretty mad, almost 4 weeks of sun and dry weather. Time to get on the projects....................................

Even More Fairy Steps from GCW on Vimeo.